Saturday, February 21, 2015

Phipps Run & the Service Star Legion Memorials

Panther Hollow Lake is the collection point for Panther Hollow Run, of course, the stream that's fed from the backside of the Oval and Great Meadow areas. But contributing mightily to the cause is Phipps Run, which is formed from the slopes of the Phipps Conservatory - Flagstaff Hill area, then stretching around CMU and the Golf Course. The pair merge under the stone bridge that overlooks Lake Schenley and then splash into its waters.

Phipps Run cascading down a ravine.
One of Phipp's arms is fed by the Westinghouse Memorial Lily Pond, although its flow has been piped underground. If you follow Flagstaff to the Memorial, there are a pair of stone steps between Schenley and Circuit Drives just below GW that lead you to a Phipps headwater. It's a cool place to do a little exploring in the summer, although it's not part of a path and requires some trampling about with a jeans and boots combo to get around comfortably.

That little area is home to an array of memorials - Westinghouse, the Flag stone, plus the Service Star Legion and World War One Groves. Everyone knows about the popular Lily Pond and Westinghouse Memorial, and the eagle eyed are aware of the Flag Memorial at the same site. But the Service Star/WW1 groves are largely out of sight and out of mind.

After stopping to say hi to George and American Youth, visit the Flag Memorial and take a short stroll up Circuit Drive, across from the Westinghouse Picnic Shelter. There, you'll spot a grove with a solitary monument, dedicated in 1920 by the Legion, a patriotic women's group that was formed during the First World War.
Service Star Memorial Grove

The stone and bronze memorial was created by an unknown artist and dedicated to the WW1 servicemen in 1920. It has a pine tree beside it with a flowering bush at its front, and is a contemplative spot set in the middle of a gently sloped meadow. (Although for a period it burst with color - the ladies planted a pair of gold stars in the grove in 1921, consisting of 1,600 tulips.)

If you walk just past the grove to the small strand of oaks beside it, you’ll find a collection of ground plaques memorializing old vets known as the World War One Memorial; back in the thirties, it was a thing to plant a tree and erect a small marker. Dedicated in 1931 by the Ladies Auxiliary of the Ascalon Commandery #59 of the Knights Templar (the formal name for the group's Allegheny County chapter), it's one of the park's hidden marvels.
Some of the stones are dedicated to those who returned; others to those who didn't. At last visit, the markers were peeking up from under leaves and snow; the Service Star Legion has long since faded, assimilated into VFW and American Legion auxiliaries, and no one is left to care for the plot.

Still, time has been kind to the memorials even if man hasn't been. The stones and their brass plates are in pretty good shape considering they've been out in the Pittsburgh elements for the past 85 years.

Next time you're in that end of the park, spend a couple of restful minutes among the secluded and all but forgotten monuments; the Park is full of surprises, both natural and man-made.
(Note - the FOPHL are in the process of putting together a 2015 "to-do" list. Freshening up this grove may be one of the projects we tackle. If you have some ideas, visit us at
https://www.facebook.com/pantherhollowlake and give us your thoughts.)

- Photo credits: Ron Ieraci -

Saturday, February 14, 2015

Up, Up & Away...The Oval As An Airport

Schenley Oval and Flagstaff Hill are nearby neighbors of the Lake as the crow flies and integral parts of the Panther Hollow watershed. So today, we're heading uphill from Lake Schenley to revisit a little airborne park lore from the fringes of the Hollow.

Pittsburgh has a secure place in aeronautic history. Pitt prof Samuel Langley did some early heavier than air flight physics that helped lay the groundwork for aviation, Clifford Ball's "Miss Pittsburgh" was the first regional air mail carrier, winning national Post Office Contract #11, and the area was littered with airfields. Heck, Amelia Earhart even crash landed in one, O'Hara's Rodgers Field. Schenley Park was one of those fields, too, although it was more of an off-the-books plane pasture than official air strip.

We know that the Oval hosted a variety of activities - various meets and exhibitions, the horses and stable, auto races, softball games, tennis matches, joggers, dog walkers, soccer contests and all sorts of play, but it was also once the first flight site in the City.

Undated studio post card by Colonial Studios

According to the County of Allegheny sesqui-centennial (sic) program of 1938, in the early 1900’s “occasional flights were made from a field in Schenley Park...During the world war flying activities were moved to Schenley Oval which was the scene of Pittsburgh aeronautics until 1920…” Schenley Oval also served as an airfield during WW1 and in the post war years, pilots trained during the conflict flocked back to it, hooked on aerial thrills. 

Annie Kulina, in her Millhunks and Renegades book, wrote “Barnstormers...lit at the Oval to perform their ‘flying circuses.’ The gathering crowd, many of whom had never seen an airplane before, gasped at the planes loop-the-loops through the sky. Adventurous spectators could pay a few dollars for their own trip to heaven, climbing in behind the pilot in his two seater flying machine for a birds eye view of the park.”

The Oval and Flagstaff were also magnets for hot air balloonists, who often performed during popular park air shows and holiday festivities. In fact, Pittsburgh journalist Gertrude Gordon became the first local female to ride a hot air balloon, taking off from Flagstaff Hill in 1908. The park may have even been the birthplace of flight.

Per Wikipedia “...according to an affidavit given in 1934 by Louis Darvarich, a friend of aeronautic pioneer Gustave Whitehead, the two men made a motorized flight together of about half a mile in Schenley Park in the spring of 1899, four years before the Wright Brothers flew into fame. Darvarich said they reached a height of 20-25’ in a steam-powered monoplane and crashed into a three story brick building. Darvarich said he was stoking the boiler aboard the craft and was badly scalded in the accident, requiring several weeks in a hospital. Reportedly because of this incident, Whitehead was forbidden by the police to perform any more experiments in Pittsburgh.” 


Gustav Whitehead; the plane is a 1901 model.
While this tale has been taken with a grain of salt (there is no photographic evidence or even a newspaper article for support), it does confirm that Pittsburgh and Schenley Park were part of the early American aerial scene. There was even serious consideration given to making the Oval an auxiliary air strip (with Neville Island to serve as a full-fledged airport) in 1928. 

The idea was championed by the Post Gazette and several county and US politicians, including future PA Supreme Court Justice Michael Musmanno, who told the PG that the Oval was ideal, being in the heart of the City's business community. Even Oakland development mastermind Franklin Nicola was in favor of the project. The proposal got as far as City Council, but it ultimately failed to gather support after a series of protests tarred the notion.


1928 Post Gazette
Soon afterward (1931), the County Airport opened in West Mifflin, and the Oval settled back into the recreational hub that we so enjoy today.

The only flying objects spinning through the Oval and Flagstaff Hill now are frisbees or soccer balls. And while the lure of stunt pilots walking on wings and doing figure eights through the Oakland skies or taking a hot air balloon trip is tough to resist, we kinda like the serenity of the park as it is. Now about those drones...

Sunday, February 1, 2015

Panther Hollow Bridge

Perhaps the most iconic view of Schenley Park is Panther Hollow Lake framed by the Panther Hollow Bridge. The span has been featured in everything from Victorian era postcards to today's Flickr pages. The landmark bridge has carried on through the 19th, 20th and 21st centuries, but was built as an afterthought; it was first planned as a second-hand trestle!

Panther Hollow Bridge outdates the Lake (Postcard via Annie's Attic)

In 1890, a temporary wooden bridge stretched across Junction Hollow (replaced by the Schenley Bridge). Plan A was to remove the timbers and rebuild it over Panther Hollow. According to lore, the 1896 fire which destroyed the Casino squelched that notion; a wooden span didn't seem like such a bright idea after the Casino was reduced to ashes.

So City Engineer Henry Rust was tasked with erecting a pair of new bridges, the Panther Hollow and Schenley Bridges. Not too surprisingly, given the timeline, the arches are near clones that were built concurrently, opening in 1897.

Some casual visitors even have trouble telling the difference between the two hand-in-hand spans, but it's easy enough - the Panther Hollow Bridge is guarded by Giuseppe Moretti's prowling bronze panthers (Pitt would choose them as mascots, but not until a dozen years later) while the Schenley Bridge has a chain link fence that's slowly being engulfed by love locks.

Guiseppe Moretti's panthers are the bridge's guardians (via Pgh Murals & Art)

The Panther Hollow Bridge has a main span of 360 feet, a total length 620 feet (it has three arches), and the crossway rises 120 feet above the Lake. It has a couple of observation decks, making it a natural stop for photographers and sight-seeing folk roaming the Phipps/Flagstaff neighborhood. The view from the platforms takes the eye over the lake and into Oakland; the bridge is an underrated overlook. The arches underneath are equally awesome in their own right.

One stone arch forms a cool (in both senses of the word) little tunnel over the Upper Panther Hollow Trail, not far past the Anderson Grove steps to the Lake. The other end shelters the cobblestone lane that runs behind the Visitors Center on the road to Loch Schenley. Generations of kids have hooked up Tarzan rope swings to the span, too, a tradition that is carried on to this day (can't say if the view or the rush is better!).

Under the arches on the trail (Steve Dines via Flickr)

The bridge began showing its age in the 1990's, after a century of constant traffic. The City came to the rescue when it restored the crossing in 1999. The Panther Hollow Bridge even has its own bike lane now. It was designated historical by the PH&LF in 2000 and won City historical status in 2002.

That's only fitting for a bellwether that's gone from the horse-and-buggy era to become one of today's beloved City landmarks.

Panther Hollow Bridge (Bruce Cridlebaugh via Pgh. Bridges)

Saturday, January 24, 2015

Hot Fun In the Summertime

Last week, we looked at the ways to pass the wintertime on the Lake. But now that a couple clippers and nor'easters decided to drop in for the weekend, it's time to change focus. Grab a hot chocolate, put your feet up and warmly recall summer in Panther Hollow.

The lake was configured in 1907-09 by Public Works Director Edward Bigelow and Parks Superintendent George Burke. But Oaklanders knew of it way back when it was a relative puddle. It was a boating and picnic site from at least post-Civil War days, and the City wasted no time putting up a rec area in 1892, shortly after Mary Schenley gifted her woody acreage to Pittsburgh.
Panther Hollow Picnic Area 1894 (Exposition program)

It didn't take long for the hard working folk of the East End to figure out that the Hollow and its lake was a pretty fun place to loaf, and they packed the ravine. Married couples and their kids had a cool hang out, and it was even better if you were wooing.

“So many members of the pioneer class in the Margaret Morrison Carnegie School (the all-female school of the college, opened in 1907) were seen strolling in Schenley Park with masculine escorts that the authorities were prompted to issue certain pronouncements to quell romance. It was a labor lost...” according to Arthur Tarbell’s 1937 “The Story of Carnegie Tech.” He noted that many “Carnegie couples” had their introductions via those park strolls, and we're sure it was the same for Pitt pairs. 



It was even better in the moonlight...



Anyway, with that kind of beginning, it was no wonder the Lake was a magnet to kids young and old. Not all of us were holding hands with stars in their eyes. We rode horses in the Hollow. We strolled the trails. We brought baskets with food and wine. We swam, boated, fished, goofed.

Riding the Ponies in the Hollow (photo via Walter Kennedy's "Oakland")

So hey, forget the snow flakes. Close your eyes and remember the hot fun in the summertime that Panther Hollow Lake doled out year after year. It's right around the corner again...

PHL by Melissa McMasters via Flickr

Sunday, January 18, 2015

Winter Wonderland - Free Skate!

Yah, we know, enough of winter already, even with this brief respite from below-freezing temps. If you're thinking of the lake right now, it's no doubt toasty recollections of fishing, swimming, skipping stones or otherwise catching some languid rays in the Hollow during the sun drenched summertime.

Fast forward those thoughts to wintry PHL scenes. You, me and the other kids used to pour onto the icy pond, cutting down by the Columbus statue, slipping down Red Clay hill, charging down the Anderson Grove or Nature Center steps, crunching down the trail or more likely joining the crowd on Boundary Street with skates, brooms and hockey sticks in hand. PHL was finally frozen, and Jack Frost's nip wasn't going to keep us home!

PHL frozen in the twenties (photo from Jean Chess via Parks Conservancy)
Everybody was there. Most of the gang groomed the ice and socialized, while the non-skaters headed for the Boathouse and its hot chocolate. The skaters joined a hockey game or spun in leisurely loops, often catching their breath at the end of the lake by the stone semi-circle, where a 55 gallon drum of blazing wood shared its warmth. The gals were teen-age flirty, and the guys responded with a little chest thumping in between slap shots. It was a real life Happy Days.


They skated in the fifties...(photo by Panther Hollow on Flickr)


They skated in the sixties (Pittsburgh City Photographers Collection via Historic Pittsburgh)

And they kept on skating through the seventies (photo from Pittsburgh Parks Conservancy)

And guess what? They're still skating, though the body count has dropped considerably, victim of progress and the times. The Skating Rink on Overlook Drive opened in 1974, the Boathouse was demolished in 1979, and the Oakland residential community with its mob of kids has by-and-large been displaced by students. But some plucky folk still appreciate the Schenley ice sheet.

A few hardy souls are still skating in 2015 (photo by Ron Ieraci)

So don't curse our far north buds in Canada for shooing their cold fronts toward us. Root through the closet, dig out those old blades, and spent some frosty Pittsburgh wintertime where it's meant to be spent - at PHL. A spin or two around the lake and a couple of old memories, capped by a toddy at the Visitors Center, should keep you plenty warm.

Sunday, January 11, 2015

PHL - The Water Isn't Fine, But It Is Getting Better...

The restoration of Schenley Park's aging grande dame, Panther Hollow Lake, has several components in play. For openers, PHL is in need of some immediate TLC, especially dredging and controlling the runoff from the hillsides that surround it, and those issues are at the top of the FOPHL's "to do" list.

Our lake lady could stand some cosmetic improvements, too, like signage, park benches, a picnic table or three and improvement of the walking path that girds its shores. In the long run, a convenient access point with park-and-walk ease is part of the plan, although claiming a spot by Phipps and hoofing to Lake Schenley via the Visitor's Center back steps is a straight-shot approach. Bartlett Street is another good entry, involving a 3/4 mile stroll to the waters. Still, a Boundary Street gateway would be ideal.

Steps behind the Visitors Center (credit: Jon Buckley)

The Pittsburgh Parks Conservancy has made their top priority water quality, and that's certainly a crucial step in restoring the Lake to its old glory. PHL was never exactly filled with Perrier; up until the eighties it was loaded with arsenic and lead, thanks to petrol runoff from the streets and the mill's soot dropping into the Hollow.

The good news: a Pitt Geology School study in 2012 found that lead and arsenic concentrations in lake sediments have decreased over the last several decades. But two major problems remain: sedimentation caused by runoff and a high e-coli count, as documented in a 2007 study by CMU's WaterQUEST program. Both are concerns that the PPC is currently addressing, particularly runoff issues.

The Conservancy has returned the stream beds to their original meandering courses and built retaining pools and natural "slow water" barriers, which help trap sediment. That's important; sediment carries pollutants, and the further upstream the gunk is deposited, the more time and space Mother Nature has to filter out the contaminants before they get to the lake.

PPC has also encircled the Hollow with rain gardens and infiltration ditches to capture runoff, notably along the Hollow Trail, the Golf Course and the Beacon Street meadow. With those interventions, a hard rain is stored as part of the water table and seeps into the lake rather than gushing into it, allowing the feeder streams to provide a steady flow to the lake instead of operating in feast-or-famine mode. It's also an effective method to cut down on runoff and sedimentation spikes.

Panther Hollow Run (credit: Pittsburgh Parks Conservancy)

The City's Public Works gang have also helped the cause by recently cleaning out the overflow gutter along the lakeside so that the water from storm events can be diverted rather than rushing, with its sediment load and flooding potential, headfirst into PHL.

The one issue that hasn't been tackled yet is e-coli contamination. The glen is home to plenty of wildlife such as deer, geese, ducks, squirrels and even pooper-scooperless pooches. They consider the Hollow to be their private loo, and you can guess where the waste gets flushed every time it rains. The Hollow also has a couple of century-old sewer lines that run beneath the lake area into a main at Junction Hollow. As of 2007, no smoking gun for leakage or back-up was found, but that's an issue that needs monitored, too.

There is no easy or obvious engineering solution for this problem other than putting critters in diapers and making sure that the pipes under the lake haven't sprung any leaks. The Conservancy provides periodic lake monitoring until a feasible technological work-around comes to light, and hopefully the PW&SA is doing its due diligence on the Hollow's pipeworks.

Where the deer and the antelope play... (credit: Rich Tenney)

So the lake waters have gradually been mediated to a degree. But it's been a painfully slow process, and we'd hate to see the patient die while waiting for the cure. The major players proved with the Nine Mile Run project that when there's a will, there's a way, and we'd like to see some of that urgency shown for PHL.

The FOPHL believes that while the watershed projects have been largely successful, it's time to focus on the main character, the lake itself. Cleaning the feeder system is smart long-term policy, but just part of the answer as long as runoff flows unabated into the lake crevasse.

Our short-term agenda is to have PHL dredged, restoring it to its usual 7-12' depth (it's half that now, at best) while removing at least a decade's worth of pollutants, and that requires municipal action. Stemming the hillside runoff is the other half of the equation. Additional trees, greenery and slow water engineering along the slopes bolstered by infiltration ditches at the bottom of the ravines should do the trick, and this job falls primarily into the hands of PHL's stewards (us included).

It's a rocky road; the Parks Conservancy has committed to a watershed first, lake last action plan while the City is struggling to find discretionary money for projects like lake dredging. But we feel quite strongly that PHL needs attention now, and hope to become the catalyst to draw some overdue lake love from its caretakers.

Wednesday, January 7, 2015

2014 - Our First Year In Review


From our beginnings just five months ago, the Friends of Panther Hollow Lake have attracted over 700 members to our Facebook page and created other social outlets via Twitter and here at Blogspot to keep our friends in the know. We've held a pair of well attended meet-and-greet tour events, and had an impromptu clean up around the lake last month.

Taking the tour in October (photo by Jon Buckley)

The FOPHL have spread the word through a Post Gazette article, a WDVE interview and on a Northern Lights radio stream (click on the "In the News" tab for all the PHL info). We've had get-to-know discussions with the Parks Conservancy and City, and hope to expand our role with them and other players such as Phipps, TreeVitalize, local green groups and enviros, and the universities. Pitt student groups have already made contact with us to help with down-the-road projects for the upcoming year and to inject some youthful energy and current environmental knowledge into the cause.

Panther Hollow Lake - December, 2014 (photo by Ron Ieraci)

We've only just begun the long road to PHL restoration through our campaign to provide awareness, education, service and advocacy. As always, you're the biggest part of the restoration equation; your voice truly counts, so raise it. If you have any thoughts on something concrete we can add to our to-do list, please leave us a post on Facebook 

Panther Hollow Run (photo by Bruce Cridlebaugh)